We arrive in Trang, Southern Thailand, disoriented and jet-lagged after a day and a night and then another half a day of flying and airports. It is sunset and, being Friday, a night market is starting to buzz just outside our hotel by the railway station. There are stalls selling trinkets and clothes and bootleg DVDs, but there are also lots of people cooking and eating food: everything from deep-fried mussels, grilled scallops and whole salt-encrusted fish to pomelo salad and roasted chestnuts. We are first tempted by an indigo-coloured cylinder of coconut-flavoured sticky rice, which makes a good starter for untried stomachs. Emboldened, we try crispy pancakes filled with chicken and bean sprouts. They are delicious, so we have second helpings. We are drawn to a busy stall (always a good sign) where a woman is mass producing pomelo and green mango salads spiced with dried seafood. Fascinated by her expertise, we watch her serve several customers, pouring the finished product through a small wide-mouthed silver funnel into a polythene bag or polystyrene bowl. We buy some and wolf it down greedily back in our room. A perfect dinner for our first night back in Thailand!